Realistic Feel: The USB handbrake is made of lightweight CNC machined aluminum and mild steel materials, this game handbrake delivers a realistic feel, simulating the experience of a real car handbrake, adding immersion and authenticity to your racing sessions.Įasy Installation: 12.8Inch long cable, independent USB cable. Precise Control: The racing sim handbrake provides precise and responsive control, allowing you to execute accurate and smooth handbrake maneuvers in your virtual races. Compatibility: Designed to work seamlessly with popular racing wheel setups like G25, G27, G29, T500, Fanatec, OSW, and more, ensuring compatibility with a wide range of gaming setups. ![]() ![]() The hardware and firmware can be found on my GitHub repository at. For these games I adapted a small software tool based on VJoy, which merges multiple controller inputs into one virtual controller. However, some games do not support multiple controllers at the same time. The firmware presents itself as a HID-compliant game controller to any OS supporting the HID protocol (in my case Windows), such that no device driver is needed. If (usbInterruptIsReady()) usbSetInterrupt(reportBuffer, sizeof(reportBuffer)) Ī small but really interesting hack is provided by the library: Because the internal oscillator of the Attiny is not precise enough for USB timing, the code measures the signal times of the USB packets received from the computer, and detunes the internal oscillator accordingly using the OSCCAL register. If (calibrationValue != 0xff) OSCCAL = calibrationValue įor (i = 0 i < 20 i++) _delay_ms(15) // 300 ms disconnect Uchar calibrationValue = eeprom_read_byte(0) // calibration value from last time This library implements USB V1 completely in software, as this microcontroller has no native USB interface.Īpart from handling the USB stuff, the code is pretty simple: Initialize the ADC, blink the LED, and then in a loop query the ADC, pack the value into a USB packet and send it off. The firmware code relies heavily on the excellent V-USB library by Objective Development. Programming the ATtiny is pretty easy, I use the avrdude software and an USBasp ISP adapter. After debugging a few problems related to my own stupidity, the PCB was ready to be programmed. Next, I printed, etched and assembled the circuit. Two capacitors are used to smooth out the power supply, but I think they are not strictly necessary. Schematic of the control circuit.Ī red LED is used to signal the operation status, and two Zener diodes are used to drop the 5V supply voltage down to 3.6 volts for the USB signal lines. The circuit is fairly simple, all the logic is handled by an ATtiny85 microcontroller. For this, I designed and built a small PCB which presents the potentiometer data via USB to the computer. So, the next problem was somehow getting the movement data into the computer. Some small adjustments had to be made, but in the end it worked out fine. A spring (silver) provides the “mechanical feedback” to the user and also limits the amount of travel so the potentiometer does not break.Īll in all, the build went about 95% to plan. The lever then actuates a linear potentiometer (yellow), which is mounted on top of the clamp. The rail is then screwed to two L-shaped pieces of aluminum (red), which in turn are screwed to a desk clamp (green). I used a spare Actobotics rail (blue) from a previous project to mount a bearing for the lever (violet). The mechanical buildĪfter an inventory check of what parts I had lying around, I drew a quick and dirty CAD model: Handbrake CAD mockup. So instead I opted to a vertical design, which is often found in racing / drift cars hydraulic systems: E-Brake installed by Josh Buittner – Langhorne, Pennsylvania USA. Originally, I wanted to build a system similar to a classic handbrake in a commercial car: A standard handbrake lever.īut this quickly proved to be a challenging build, because I wanted to clamp the thing to my table. Surely I could build something equivalent similar out of parts lying around? Inspiration ![]() So, I set out to acquire a handbrake controller, but quickly decided to build my own after seeing the retail prices often above 80€. And pressing a button on my steering wheel controller just doesn’t cut it in terms of control and realism. But sometimes, there is also the Need for Smooth Drifting Around Tight Corners. Of course, there is always a Need for Speed in racing simulations.
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